Before you can do this, you have to search for a reputable breeder first on where to adopt your new joeys/gliders. Admit it or not, pets purchased from pet stores either have diseases, products of inbreeding, and most of the time, are too young to be weaned from their mother. To save you from possible heartaches and from spending your money in vet bills, it's best to adopt gliders from a reputable breeder whom you can ask of the pet's history, diet, and temperament.
To ensure that you're purchasing a healthy glider, you can actually make an initial assessment of the glider you're about to adopt. Here are the qualities that you should look for a glider:
- pink nose
- Bright, big, black eyes
- Shiny fur
- Inquisitive and curious
- No wounds etc
- Your instinct that the glider is just healthy
Once you've chosen your glider, you can already bring it home. If you're driving or shipping your glider, please make sure that a comfortable pet carrier will be housing your glider. The carrier must have a pouch inside for your gliders to snuggle in.
This is an example of travel carrier for your sugar gliders
Upon your pet's arrival on your home, it is important that the cage must already be set up in a place where it is quiet and away from your other pets. When I mean set-up, it's already clean and well sanitized, toys have already been arranged, and that 2-3 pouches are present, etc. Transfer your babies into their new home while keeping in mind that you have to leave them alone on their first day. This is a necessary step since the gliders are still adjusting into their new environment and getting the hang of their new home and picking them up or trying to bond with them on the first day will just freak them out. It is also important to note that due to the stress of rehoming, gliders have the tendency on not to eat for 1 -2 days. Just make sure that they are peeing and pooing okay. AND ONE IMPORTANT REMINDER: YOUR GLIDER SHOULD BE SUBJECTED TO A WELLNESS CHECK UP WITHIN 48 HOURS OF BRINGING IT HOME. This is not to make your life hard but a means to check that your glider has arrived safely. Gliders are wild animals and they hide their sickness very well. The appearance of most of their diseases can be triggered by stress, thus, it is important to check them as soon as possible to prevent any fatalitities on your little babies.
On the gliders' second day, bonding can already be started. Don't be worried when they start crabbing or biting or nipping at you. This is a normal behavior especially that everything's new to them and naturally, they will have the instinct of defending themselves. Take the bonding slowly. Start by offering licky treats from your hands such as yogurts or honey. You can even give them mealies. Try petting them while they're busy licking your fingers. Aside from these method, place your shirt you've worn for the day at the top of their cage to familiarize them with your smell. You can even put a small piece of fleece with your scent on it on their pouch. To take the bonding to a higher level, make or purchase some bonding pouches which you can carry your gliders with you while they sleep during the day. This is to help them to become comfortable with your movements, smell or voice. You can also pet them from the outside while they sleep. Below is an example of a bonding pouch.
When the glider's are getting more comfortable with you, you can already start having some play time with them through using a tent or a glider proofed room. (e.g bathroom). You can put in toys (NO CATNIPS PLEASE), their favorite treats and everything that they might enjoy. You sure can also bring your favorite book or play some computer games while they climb, pee and poo on you.
On the other hand, while bonding is a lifetime activity for you and your gliders, do not forget to subject them to another wellness vet visit on their 30th day in your home. This is to ensure you that no appearance of parasites or diseases have occured in your glider's body during their first 30 days. Usually, the first 30 days of your gliders at home is called the "quarantine period."
Though it has been strictly advised that a pair of gliders should be adopted, sometimes it is really inevitable that one might find him/herself purchasing only one and later deciding that their lone glider must have a pair. Or sometimes, one individual might find himself/herself wanting to build a colony of of 3-5 gliders in one cage. One might easily think that they will just put two new gliders together and that's that. And this wrong assumption could often lead to injuries or death to the gliders. Remember that gliders are territorial and although they can be the most dedicated partners, they can also get nasty to their fellow gliders if they haven't grown up together or haven't been introduced properly.
Also note that there is always a possibility that introductions may not be all the time successful. Sometimes, gliders just don't get along with each other just like humans do. Anyway, to start with the introduction, always subject the new glider/s you are introducing to your already existing glider to a quarantine period first. This is to make sure that whatever contagious disease the new glider might be carrying will not be transferred to your healthy glider. After the 30 day quarantine period and ensuring that the new glider/s have a clean bill of health, you can start swapping their sleeping pouches to make them familiar with each other's scent. Also put their cages side by side but not near enough for them to hurt each other. When you can see that they they don't have the tendency of firghting or killing each other, it's already time to introduce them.
Choosing a neutral area for introduction is an important thing to remember. Gliders are very territorial and the new one might get intimated when she/he will be introduced in a cage already marked by your existing glider. Glider proofed bathrooms and tents can make excellent intro areas. Once you've found the perfect place, you can now start the introduction. Try to assess the gliders' behavior toward each other. Look for any possibilities of fighting or hostilities. If there is none, then it's safe to bring them together to their cage. Always take note that if you're using the same cage, it should have been cleaned thoroughly to erase the marks of the previous glider occupying it. It should be a neutral cage so no one would try to dominate each other. To be on a safe side though, try to spend one whole night with your gliders just to monitor how they're doing with the company of each other.
Housing and toys are also an important part of your pet's life. Gliders in the wild can glide up to 50-100 yards from tree to tree. Just imagine how cruel it would be for the animal to be housed in a 2 x 2 x 2 cage.
What are the things to look for when choosing a cage?
- A minimum dimension of 3 x 3 x 3 feet with 1/2 inch or lesser bar spacing. And of course, the taller the bigger.
- Cages must be either made of hardware cloth or meshes. If using steel, it should either be stainless or vinyl/powder coated. There are a lot of evidences that galvanized wire irons can cause UTI to sugar gliders.
- A cage must never have pointed parts in it unless you want your gliders to be injured. One way to test this is to take a moisten cotton ball and rub it softly all over the glider's cage. If some cotton has been left during the rub test, then ensure to unsharpen or take out any pointed materials in the cage.
There are many types of cages to choose from. Below are sample pictures:
Reptarium and PVC Coated Steel Cages
Cages can come in very expensive prices. So there's also the option of making your own one. I, for one have made 2 cages for my babies and honestly, it really saved me a lot.
Here's a picture of one of the cages that I made (It's around 4.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep):
This cage is actually very easy, simple, and affordable (only spent 30 U$ or PhP 1.5K) to make. You will only be needing the following:
- 1 unit assemble type fabric cabinet (can be found in almost grocery or department store and it comes in various sizes. I bought mine for around 20U$ or PhP 1000.00
- 3-5 meters black garden net (available in any hardware store. I bought mine for 1.1 U$ or PhP 60.00 per meter)
Once you have the following materials, assemble the fabric cabinet parts to make a cabinet skeleton. Never mind putting the fabric cover on as your gliders won't need it. Instead, make use of the garden net to cover the assembled cabinet skeleton. To make your life easier, find a tailor to sew the garden net that would fit the cabinet skeleton. Once the net is already finished, you can now have your glider dream cage.
Or you can always try looking at this site How to make PVC Cages. Their design is very easy to follow. I can guarantee you that since my other cage was built based on their plan. I will be posting pics of it as soon as I'm done with the furnishings. I have, however, spent around 40 U$ (PhP 2000.00) or more in making it not including the hard work that I have to exert in tying all those zip ties. Nevertheless, it's worth it. The cage that I was able to make was 5 ft tall, 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep.
TOYS
Gliders are very playful animals and they easily get bored when nothing is boggling their minds. They love challenges. They love treasure hunting. They just love playing as kids do. Gliders love fleece fabrics and it would be good to make the majority of their toys from fleece.
If you are creative enough, you can make your own glider toys. I have made mine some of their toys and I think they really love it.
Here are some examples that I made for my babies:
The egg pit is a favorite one. There are times that I'll find my little Andromache sleeping on the basket surrounded by all the eggs. And at night times, she's always hanging around in that orange basket. You can make one for your suggies too. It's not only rewarding but it could actually save you a lot.
However, if you're creativity has just escaped you, why not try visiting this site No Sew Toys and Accessories? Suz has a lot of toy information on her site that might help you make your own suggie toys.
Points to remember when choosing toys for gliders:
- only purchase toys that are baby safe and has no pointed/ sharp edges and are bigger than your glider's mouth
- when sewing accessories, the sewed edges must be well hidden. Loose threads and open seams are an area for disaster since a glider's hands, head, or feet can get stuck into these.
- There's no 100% safe toy or accessory. The overall safety of every toy and accessory depends on YOU to inspect the wear and tear of such things on a daily basis.
Though gliders are hardy animals, they can still and will get sick. And when they do, you'd be surprised to find yourself in the verge of bankruptcy since vet bills can really go high. Gliders are wild animals and they have the tendency to hide their illness' symptoms very well so please ALWAYS TAKE THE TIME to know your gliders very well. Study their normal behavior for this could be your basis in case your gliders start to show any signs of unusual activities. At the onset of any unusual behavior, immediately bring your gliders to a glider knowledgeable vet as death have the possibility to occur within hours of discovery.
For signs and symptoms, you may visit Suz's Site on Signs & Symptoms of A Glider's Illness
Here are some common glider diseases that you might want to watch out for:
Aflatoxicosis
A hepatic (liver) disease caused by ingestion of aflatoxins, which are toxic metabolites produced by certain fungi in/on foods and feeds. At highest risk for contamination are corn, peanuts, and cottonseed Aflatoxins are also carcinogenic (cancer causing). Sugar gliders can contract aflatoxicosis by eating crickets who have been fed contaminated corn, or eating peanuts.
Causes:
Ingesting contaminated corn, peanuts, or insects who have ingested contaminated feed
Prevention:
Research insect suppliers and find out what kind of feed is used
Ask other glider owners knowledgeable about aflatoxicosis prevention where they get their insects
Do not feed your gliders peanuts
Research:
Cornell University Animal Science Department
Signs and Symptoms:
Loss of appetite
Anemia
Jaundice
Lethargy
Gastrointestinal dysfunction (bowel problems, diarrhea)
Treatment:
If caught in time, aflatoxicosis is reversible
Change feed immediately
Seek veterinary care immediately. Once a sugar glider shows symptoms, death can occur within HOURS
Calcium Deficiency
Because many fruits, vegetables and proteins in a glider diet have low calcium to phosphorous ratios, many gliders experience calcium deficiency, which can lead to Hind Leg Paralysis, a potentially fatal disease.
Prevention:
Know the calcium to phosphorous ratio of your glider diet. Phosphorous inhibits the glider's absorption of calcium into the body
If you choose a fresh diet, be sure that you and your veterinarian develop a supplement that will create a calcium rich diet for your glider (For diet info, please go to Sugar Glider Diet Info.
Feed a well-balanced, nutritious diet
Monitor food consumption. If your gliders don't like the food, they may not eat it. A starving glider is an unhealthy glider. Make changes to accommodate this
Research:
USDA Nutrient Database: Find out calcium/phosphorous ratios
Cat Food Complications
The two major and potentially fatal complications gliders experience from eating cat food are lumpy jaw and intestinal blockage. Diets that are high in cat food also lead to calcium deficiency, liver problems, and, in some cases, death.
Prevention:
NEVER feed cat food
Research:
Pawprint Online: Sugar Gliders 101
Constipation:
Constipation is passage of small amounts of hard, dry bowel movements. It may be difficult and painful to have a bowel movement.
Causes:
Not enough fiber in diet
Not enough liquids
Use of pain medications
Lack of exercise
Stress
Gastrointestinal dysfunction
Poor diet overall
Prevention:
Provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet
Provide fresh water at all times for your gliders
Provide enough exercise for your gliders
Monitor glider fecal matter to insure that stools are healthy
Signs and Symptoms:
Straining or crying when having a bowel movement
Decrease or lack of bowel movements
Treatment:
Baby food prunes, and orange juice may work as a temporary solution until veterinary assistance can be obtained
Small amounts of mineral oil have also been effective in treating glider constipation
Seek veterinary care as soon as possible
Contact Dermatitis
A human condition, which is an inflammation of the skin caused by direct contact with a foreign substance. In this case, it would be the paws of your gliders.
Causes:
A history of allergies
The severity can vary with an individual over time
The skin reacts to the gliders paws as allergens and triggers an immune response that inflames the skin
Although there may be no initial reaction, repeated exposure can develop sensitivity
Prevention:
Wear long sleeves when handling your gliders if you suspect you have an allergy
Wash skin surfaces thoroughly after handling your gliders
Research:
Medline Plus Medical Encyclopedia: Contact Dermatitis
Hendrick Health System Access Med Health Information Library: Dermatitis
Signs and Symptoms:
A red rash limited to the area of skin that has come in contact with glider paws
Itching of the skin in exposed areas
Swelling in the area that had contact with the paws
Blisters or pimple-like rash
Tenderness or warmth in exposed area
Treatment:
Thoroughly wash exposed area with water to remove irritants
Apply cool compresses to relieve irritation
Apply Hydrocortisone Cream to the affected area, being careful not to overrnedicate
Dehydration
Occurs when the body does not have enough fluids to function at an optimal level. Any dehydration is a life-threatening situation and the condition is fatal, but reversible if caught in time.
Causes:
Fluid loss (usually through vomiting or diarrhea)
Fluid loss due to excessive urination (as in diabetes or kidney disease)
Strenuous activity
Appetite loss associated with acute illness
Inadequate water supply
Prevention:
Always provide fresh water for your gliders at all times
Provide your gliders a healthy, well-balanced diet to avoid illness
Always thoroughly wash food and check for safety before giving it to your gliders
At the first sign of any problems with your glider, seek veterinary care
Research:
Medline Plus Medical Encyclopedia: Dehydration
Hendrick Health System Access Med Health Information Library: Dehydration
"Sugar Gliders: Gotta' Love 'Em", Kevin Schargen, Former President, ISGA, Critters Magazine
Signs and Symptoms:
Loss of fluid through vomiting or diarrhea
Sunken eyes
If the skin on the back stands up when you pinch it, your glider is dehydrated
Delayed capillary refill time (when you press on the gums of your glider with your finger, the spot remains white for an extended period of time)
Membranes lining mouth and nose lose moisture
Decreased or absent urine output
Constipation
Deep or rapid breathing
Seizures
Lethargy
Treatment:
Immediately administer water or Pedialyte using a needle-less syringe
Seek medical attention immediately! This is an emergency situation. A glider can dehydrate completely and die in a matter of twelve hours
Depression
Depression is a term that people commonly use to refer to states involving sadness, dejection, lack of self-esteem, and lack of energy. In sugar gliders, depression can lead to mental illness, self-mutilation, and death. Severe, persistent depressed mood and loss of interest or pleasure in normal activities, accompanied by decreased energy, changes in sleep and appetite, and feelings of guilt or hopelessness are all signs of depression and/or mental illness.
Causes:
Keeping a lone sugar glider
Owner neglect
Prolonged illness
Loss of a companion
Prevention:
Keep more than one sugar glider
Provide your gliders with toys, a large enough cage, and play with them
Provide your glider with a healthy, well-balanced diet
Provide your glider with annual or bi-annual check ups at the vet to alleviate, treat, and/or prevent illness
Research:
Medline Plus: Depression
"Sugar Gliders: Gotta' Love 'Em", Kevin Schargen, Former President, ISGA, Critters Magazine
Signs and Symptoms:
Loss of interest in playing
Decreased activity
Change in sleeping patterns
Decreased communications: no barking
Pacing or consecutive back-flips (this is a sign of serious mental illness)
Treatment:
Lots of love, bonding time, and attention
Provide a glider companion for your glider
Ensure that the glider has an enriching environment
If things do not improve, or your glider is pacing excessively or doing consecutive back flips, seek veterinary care
Diarrhea
The passage of an increased amount of stool. Mild diarrhea is considered to be the passage of a few loose or mushy stools. Severe diarrhea is the passage of many watery or unformed stools.
Causes:
Viral or bacterial infection
Stress of moving to a new home
Parasites
Malabsorption (lactose intolerance, intolerance to specific foods, milk protein intolerance)
Bowel disease
Prevention:
Provide your glider with a healthy, well-balanced diet
Always thoroughly wash your hands before preparing glider food or handling your glider
Keep cages well-cleaned
Remove any uneaten food as soon as possible from the cage
Carefully monitor stools when offering gliders a new food item. Discontinue if watery stools appear
Research:
Medline Plus: Diarrhea
Signs and Symptoms:
Loose bowel movements
Treatment:
Check to see if the diarrhea is diet-related (citrus fruits, pumpkin, and milk products are common culprits)
If diarrhea is bad, administer Pedialyte to prevent dehydration
Seek veterinary attention to rule out such causes as internal parasites or bacterial infection.
Giardiasis
A diarrheal illness caused by Giardia intestinalis (also known as Giardia lamblia), a one-celled, microscopic parasite that lives in the intestine of people and animals. The parasite is protected by an outer shell that allows it to survive in the environment for long periods of time. In sugar gliders, it can remain dormant for up to six months, and only manifest systems when the glider becomes stressed. If this happens, death can occur within hours.
Causes:
The parasite is passed in the stool of an infected person or animal
Accidentally swallowing something that has come in contact with the stool of a person or animal infected with Giardia
Eating uncooked food contaminated with Giardia (such as uncooked vegetables and fruits)
There is an increased risk of contracting the disease from daycare workers, children who attend daycare, international travelers, hikers, and swimmers
Prevention:
Always thoroughly wash your hands
Always thoroughly wash and/or peel fruits and vegetables before feeding them to gliders
Do not use or ingest water that may be fecally contaminated
Research:
Medline Plus: Giardiasis
CDC Giardiasis Fact Sheet
Signs and Symptoms:
Change in behavior
Lameness
Diarrhea
Vomiting
Yellow tint to belly (Jaundice), indicating liver problems
Green color to stools
dehydration
Treatment:
Seek veterinary care immediately. Only a vet can properly treat giardiasis
Have all gliders tested for presence of giardia
Quarantine the animal with symptoms. Giardiasis is HIGHLY contagious
Take special care with other animals and yourself. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the infected glider and keep hands away from your mouth
Clean other glider cages
Thoroughly clean the cage and everything in it
Follow up with the vet to ensure the parasite is eradicated
Clean the cage and items again after the follow up visit
The information provided herein should not be used during any medical emergency or for the diagnosis or treatment of any medical condition. A licensed exotic and glider knowledgeable veterinarian should be consulted for diagnosis and treatment of any and all medical conditions.
Source: http://www.isga.org/informationcenter/HealthIssues/medicalreference.htm
Glider Medical Kit
If your glider is injured or ill you must seek medical help as soon as possible, this list is merely a first aid kit for quick and possibly life saving assistance.
•Cotton buds to clean wounds and apply medication
•1 ml syringes without needles for oral medications
•0.3 ml syringes with needles to give injections(note: only give injections if your vet has instructed you and given you permission)
•baby fingernail clippers, scissors and tweezers
•styptic powder to stop bleeding (used for shaving cuts!)
•puppy milk or marsupial milk for emergency feeding
•e-collar (Making an E-Collar)
•sterile cotton pads/bandages/gauze
•toothpicks and small adhesive tape to make splint, these will need cutting to size, don't have long pointed ends!!!
•french catheter #5 for feeding babies and adults or eye dropper
•lectade (electrolyte solution for the treatment of dehydration) if you cannot get this, gliderade will do
•mineral oil for constipation
•ky jelly for prolapsed penis
•sterile solution for cleaning wounds alternatively F10sc for wound cleaning
•F10 Wound healing ointment for cuts and grazes
•Pedialyte or Gatorade if you can't find the former
PLEASE DO NOT SELF-DIAGNOSE OR EVEN TREAT YOUR GLIDER WITHOUT CONSULTING YOUR GLIDER KNOWLEDGEABLE VET
You can also find a lot of other important information on Suz's Site